24 August 2008

Dubrovnik

Time to fulfill long-forgotten promises: I assured you that I would deliver some photos of my 2007 journey to Dubrovnik with my former adviser.

If you'll pardon my very belated realization that I needed to whip those photos into blog-posting shape, here's the selection I culled for your viewing pleasure.

To me, Dubrovnik is a pearl of Europe that has practically no equal, a walled old city with mountains tumbling right down to a turquoise sea. Even if cruise ships stop by to dump 3,000 or so people on the city during your summer visit, and park their hulking selves in an otherwise photogenic harbor (I spared you those pics). I apologize for adding to the hordes by way of this blog, but I also feel compelled to share some of the beauty.

Just in case you're wondering about where to overnight, given rocketing hotel prices in the city, try up or down the coast. All kinds of hotels and rented rooms are available if you have a rental car.

Without further ado, a few shots from one of the best days of my life:





















































And, driving back down the coast to Plat (after momentarily driving the wrong way down a one-way street to the consternation of local Croatians), we got back to a great, affordable hotel and feasted our eyes on this:






23 August 2008

Don't do that to chocolate, please...

Among the things that quickened my pulse in contemplating a move to Germany were thoughts of great beer, pastries, bread...and, of course, chocolate. This might not be Belgium, but I know from past experience that Germans acquit themselves very well when it comes to the things one can do to properly processed cocoa beans.

Now I know I cannot simply banish the mistaken beliefs of many of my heathen American (and some European) acquaintances who think that milk chocolate counts as chocolate, but I can at least urge you to stop wasting your short chocolate time on this Earth, and learn to love rich, dark, spiritually transforming chocolate.

That said, I have been enduring a bit of shock every time I visit the grocery store.

There, sitting innocuously on the shelves (admittedly of dark as well as milk chocolate), are bars and bars and bars of ... chili chocolate.

That's right. Hot chili peppers in your chocolate.

Apparently, it's in enough demand that they don't stop with chili peppers. Even a major chocolate producer such as Lindt offers not just chili chocolate, but also chili-plus-sour-cherry chocolate, chili-plus-pomegranate-chocolate, and chili-plus-papaya chocolate.

They even have a jalapeno chocolate alongside some fruit which I'm forgetting.

Now, I realize this is Germany, where it's customary, among other misguided combinations, to stick mayonnaise on your french (er, Belgian) fries.

But I just cannot overcome my fear and loathing in speculating on the taste of it so as to sample this abomination of what would have been perfect dark chocolate goodness in no need of further tampering.

When you think of complements to chocolate, chili and jalapeno peppers are not exactly in the remote neighborhood of orange, mocha, or brandy. Not even close.

So. Any of you eating this stuff, please stop. We already have enough chocolate insanity to cure where milk is concerned.

Or maybe the whole point of a pepper chocolate is to drive you to quench the foul taste with milk chocolate? I cannot think of a more evil and inhuman conspiracy to drive up sales.



04 August 2008

Goodbye, Aleksandr Isayevich

I don't have the words to eulogize the passing of Solzhenitsyn in some grand, universalizing, overdone interpretation meant to capture his significance for the wider world. The newspapers are doing a good enough job without me, some much better than others.

I can only say a paltry few words about what Solzhenitsyn meant to me personally.

One Day In The Life Of Ivan Denisovich was one of the very, very few books inflicted on us in high school that spoke to me. Enough to waken a moral interest, and reinforce an interest in communist societies, that never shut down afterwards.

One of my advisers in undergraduate days, an archconservative who nonetheless found much to praise in FDR, referenced Solzhenitsyn and the beginning of Gulag Archipelago to us, conjuring up the core terror of "You're under arrest!"

It wasn't until well after a decade in graduate school that I finally pulled Gulag down off my shelves, waiting silently, almost reproachingly for years, to begin reading.

It is a traumatizing work, not just for the author, but his audience. So bleak, despite its indictment of Leninism and Stalinism, that there is almost no exit from the decades of grinding misery and brutality of the archipelago. It staggers the mind how it is possible to survive mentally, to say nothing of physically, under such conditions. Let alone to feel capable of, to have the energy and mind for literary historiography, and remain strong enough to stand with a fierce moral backbone against the weight of a crushing system with the force of concrete and steel and unleashed moral bankruptcy by almost everyone around you.

What the Soviet system did to Aleksandr Isayevich, it almost doesn't compare to the self-punishing effort he put into writing as his vocation, deep into old, old age. That I admire as well.

Pearls of expression fall off nearly every page. That book spoke to me in ways I can't describe.

Thanks also to Aleksandr Isayevich, I have a fascination with gulag literature from all over Eastern Europe. I am constantly hunting for the keys that preserve sanity and hope in the face of total, depraved lawlessness - and sufficient power of conviction to prevent the collapse and warping of political order that enables such a gulag in the first place.

Rest in peace, Aleksandr Isayevich. You may have complained bitterly that the Western world does not have the moral fiber to stand up to any form of totalitarianism, but you should know that some of us have listened, and closely.